Orris
ORRISCIENCE is the perfect balance of all the orris facets: the green top notes gradually give way to amazing violet notes due to irone, leaving behind woody powdery sensuality. ORRISCIENCE 15 IRONE is greener, but less floral and powdery than the same absolute obtained by standard process. The irones content determines the powdery, warmth and violet profile.
Powerful, with long-lasting effect. Cost effective, it can be used at a higher level than traditional orris extract, to give an incredible luxury signature to the composition. Orris extracts can be used in perfumery as well as in flavors, especially in red fruit notes such as raspberry. This ingredient is both convenient for perfumery and flavor applications.
Obtained by distillation of the biomass with water, or steam.
The essential oil is physically separated from the aqueous phase by decantation.
Extracted part: rhizomes.
Rhizomes’ maturation drives the development of irones, which characterize the powdery note of Orris.
Orriscience is one of the latest dsm-firmenich innovation in Orris processing.
Distillation of the roots yields a "butter".
There are two main species of orris used as perfume plants: Orris pallida and Orris germanica. Native to Central Europe, orris is cultivated for perfumery in Italy, France, Morocco and China. It is picked manually in the summer months. The rhizomes are separated from the shoots, peeled to increase oxygenation necessary for the production of irones, and washed to eliminate residual dirt, then sliced and left to dry, followed by proper storing. To foster the development of irones, the drying process usually takes 2 to 3 years. Italy was once the main producer of Orris root and countries, namely Morocco and China, have increased their own Orris production in more recent years.
Morocco
Orris Morocco is sourced in the Atlas of Morocco in the mountains. The farmers produce 150 MT per year which they sell in the souk to collectors. After drying the raw material is stored at the farmers' for a few months before selling in the souk.